G K A Y
Skin Care Specialist
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GLOSSARY
Acetone
Strong solvent used in nail polish remover. Appropriate only for natural nails.
Contained in some astringents/toners/fresheners.
Acne
Acne is the term for pimples and complexion problems which occur in young people
and some adults. Inflammation of the oil glands in the skin due to an over
sensitivity to the normal level of hormones in the body. Pimples usually occur
on the face, but may involve the neck, chest, back and upper arms. Acne is only
a skin problem and does not affect your general health.
Acrylic
Sculptured nail material. Combination of a liquid and powder that is mixed to
form the artificial nail.
Age Spots
Benign brown growths on the skin that commonly appear with age.
Aesthetician
Professional who works to clean and perfect skin.
Allantoin
Known for its gentleness. A very healing, soothing, and anti-irritating
ingredient. Often used in anti-acne products, after sun products, and clarifying
lotions.
Algisium Complex
A natural marine-derived complex which functions as an anti-inflammatory agent.
Almond, Sweet Oil
Emollient used in lotions and creams. Known for its mildness.
Aloe Vera
Plant from which aloe gel is extracted. Known for its soothing, gentle
properties. Especially good for burns and moisturizing the skin. Promotes
healing and cellular renewal.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
Any one of several natural acids (glycolic, lactic, citric, malic) obtained from
fruit which assist in shedding dead skin cells. AHA reduces fine wrinkles and
pigment spots by removing the superficial layers of the skin and drawing
moisture into the tissue, causing the skin to fill out. They provide the benefit
of chemical exfoliation of the skin, making skin appear clearer. Solutions vary
from 2% to 15% (with anything higher needing a prescription to acquire.) 8%
formulas are generally recognized as being quite effective with minimal
irritation. Glycolic acid is thought to be the most effective exfoliant of all
the alpha hydroxy acids.
Ammonium Hydroxide
When used in skin peels and hair waving and straightening, it is used to
stabilize and adjust the acids.
Antibacterial
Substances that can kill bacteria and treat infections. Also used as
preservatives in cosmetics.
Anti-inflammatory
Substances that can soothe irritation of the skin. Also can be the property of a
substance that prevents irritation causing swelling and ill effects of toxic
cosmetic ingredients.
Anti-irritant
Substances that soothe the localized/superficial inflammation of the skin that
is due directly to one or more external substances.
Antioxidants
Vitamins or substances which impede oxidation or spoilage promoted by oxygen or
peroxide. Substances, such as Vitamin E and C, which prevent oxidation at the
cellular level.
Antiperspirant
A product, usually containing aluminum salt, used to prevent perspiration and
the odor it causes. May contain an additional deodorant, but not necessarily.
Aromatherapy
Use of essential oils fragrance for therapeutic benefits.
Astringent
A solution which removes oil from the skin; usually used after washing the face
to remove any remaining traces of cleanser. Designed to dry and shrink
superficial tissues by reducing water content and sometimes promotes healing of
inflamed skin.
Athlete's Foot (tinea pedis)
Tinea pedis or athlete's foot is a skin infection caused by a kind of mold
called a fungus. The fungus causing tinea pedis prefers moist, warm skin; this
is why tinea pedis favors the folds between the toes and is often worse in hot
weather. In some people tinea pedis can get so bad that blisters form. Not all
foot rashes are tinea pedis, only those caused by fungus growing on the skin.
Atopic dermatitis (atopic eczema or eczema)
A name given to a stubborn, itchy rash that occurs in certain people with
sensitive or irritable skin. Eczema is common in infants and young children, and
may disappear before adulthood. Eczema may clear for years, only to reappear
later--often on the hands.
Bentonite or Kaolin
These are clays in powders and foundations that may clog pores. Generally, these
clays are used in facial masks to absorb excess facial oil. Also known as "china
clay". Can promote dryness of the skin if used too frequently.
Benzoyl Peroxide
An anti-acne medication that kills acnegenic bacteria and inhibits production of
oil by the sebaceous glands. Generally found in 2.5%, 5% and 10% formulas.
Beta Hydroxy Acid
Used to exfoliate epidermis of skin and prevent clogged pores. Salicylic acid is
a BHT Preservative.
Blackheads
A mixture of dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria exposed to oxygen.
Boils (furuncle, carbuncle)
Boils are painful swellings of the skin caused by deep skin infection with
bacteria. Boils begin as red, tender swellings, which may later ooze pus. Some
people have recurrent boils.
Botanical
Refers to a product containing plants or ingredients made from plants.
Bronzers
A makeup which makes the skin appear more tanned. Can be found in powder or
cream form, not to be confused with Self Tanners which are not water soluble.
Butyl, Propyl, Ethyl, and Methyl Parabens
Synthetic preservatives used in non-protein based products.
Butylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol
Solvents used to dilute.
C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate
Emollient and provides a dry, silky feel to skin.
Calendula (aka Marigold)
Used in fresheners, soothing creams, and sensitive skin products. Sometimes used
in deodorants. Some adverse skin reactions have been reported in medical
literature.
Camphor
Used as an antiseptic, stimulant, and anti-inflammatory ingredient in toners,
aftershaves, lipbalms, and after sun preparations.
Candida
Candida, or Monilia, is a skin rash caused by a yeast living on normal skin in
80% of all people. In most people, the presence of this yeast on the skin is not
visible. In some people, for unknown reasons, the yeast grows more actively and
causes a red, itchy, scaling rash. The yeast likes warm moist areas and usually
grows in the skin folds under the breast, stomach, and arm pits.
Carrot Oil
Primarily used as a fragrance and coloring agent in cosmetics. Thought to be
good for both dry and oily skin.
Castor Oil
Used in lipsticks, concealers, hair pomade, ointments, creams and lotions.
Ceramides
Lipids (found at the stratum level) play an essential role in the barrier
function of the skin and the retention of water in it. During the aging process,
the level of ceramides decreases. An external supply protects the skin and
allows it to retain water.
Cetyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol)
A gentle humectant, lather booster, and emulsifier. In hair products, it is used
to smooth and soften the hair cuticle.
Chamomile
Used in many products for blonde hair to enhance color. Also used in a variety
of cosmetics as an emollient. Anti-inflammatory, soothing agent for tender skin;
also provides antioxidation.
Citric Acid
Derived from citrus fruit, it maintains pH balance, preserves, and stabilizes
foam when used in cosmetics. Used in many post perm ingredients to neutralize
odor.
Clays
Clays can draw out impurities, refine, and soften the skin.
Cleansing Creams
Contain little or no soap or detergent, usually with an oily base. Meant to be
applied, then removed with wiping rather than rinsing.
Cocamide DEA
Either made synthetically or derived from the kernel of the coconut, it gives
lather and cleans skin and hair.
Cocoa Butter
Mainly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. Well absorbed by the skin and
imparts a sheen. Used in many lipsticks, soaps, and emollient creams. An
acnegenic substance to some.
Cold Sores Herpes Simplex
Herpes simplex is commonly referred to as cold sores or fever blisters. It is a
viral infection of the skin that may occur once or return again and again. This
is because when the virus is cleared from the skin by the immune system it hides
in the nerves and is never completely removed from the body. Herpes infections
are very common. It is estimated that nine out of ten people have been exposed
to herpes. Many people are infected and don't even know it. Unfortunately those
who carry herpes can spread the disease without knowing it.
Collagen and Elastin
These are animal by products used in many products. As human skin ages, our own
soluble collagen becomes inflexible and the skin's connective tissue becomes
less moisturized naturally. The use of animal collagen and elastin to replace
our own is not possible, although these ingredients have moisturizing
properties. Effective in smoothing the hair's cuticle.
Comedogenic
A cosmetic preparation known to promote acne. Pore clogging.
Comfrey
Root from which allantoin is extracted. Anti-inflammatory, astringent, and
emollient. Contains mucopolysaccharides.
Concealer
An opaque makeup used to cover darkness under eyes, redness of the skin, or
anything irregular in the skin's color or texture. Comes in a waxy stick, cream,
or opaque liquid formula.
Cornflower
Used in toners, astringents, and healing creams. Can cause photosensitivity in
some people.
Cosmeceutical
While the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act does not recognize the term "cosmeceutical",
the cosmetic industry has begun to use this word to refer to cosmetic products
that have drug-like benefits. The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act defines drugs as
those mitigate or prevent disease or that affect the structure or function of
the human body. While drugs are subject to an intensive review and approval
process by FDA, cosmetics are not approved by FDA prior to sale. If a product
has drug properties, it must be approved as a drug.
Cosmetics
Articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness or alternating the appearance without affecting the
body structure or function." Many cosmetics alter their advertising to meet
these guidelines, such as antiwrinkle creams, since they would otherwise be
considered a drug. For example, "to reduce the appearance of fine lines",
whereas a drug such as Retin-A actually does reduce fine lines, and thus is
actuallyaffecting the structure of the skin--not just changing its appearance.
Cream
A preparation for the skin used to impart moisture. Usually thicker and more
emollient than a lotion. Creams work on cellulite, tone, or soothe the skin.
Cream Rinse
A mixture of wax, thickeners, and a group of chemicals used to coat the hair
shaft and detangle after shampooing.
Cucumber
Used in facial creams, lotions, and cleansers. Known for its astringent and
soothing properties. Also an anti-inflammatory agent (slices placed over puffy
eyes can reduce swelling).
Cuticle
Outermost layer of skin (aka epidermis) or the fold of skin at the base of the
fingernail. Hair cuticles are the outermost layer of the hair shaft which
overlap like shingles. When healthy and lying flat, these cuticles impart sheen
to the hair.
Cysts
A cyst is a harmless sac-like growth in the deeper layers of the skin, which is
filled with a soft, whitish brown material that sometimes oozes onto the skin
surface.
Dandonyl
An extract of Baobab Leaves (Adansonia Digitata). Contains mucilages, rich in
uronic acid. Leaves the skin softer and the complexion more radiant.
Deodorant
A product used to counteract odors caused by the decomposition of sweat on the
body. Contain antiseptic substances to kill bacteria and strong fragrances to
mask offensive smell. (Not to be confused with antiperspirants which actually
inhibit production of sweat.)
Dermatologist
A medical doctor who specializes in diseases and disorders of the skin.
Dermis
the second layer of the skin, which contains: elastin (elastic protein) to
provide skin tone and suppleness, collagen (architectural protein) for strength
and structure; blood vessels for the delivery of essential nutrients and the
removal of wastes; nerves, making the skin one of the most sensitive organs in
the body; oil glands to lubricate the skin; and sweat glands to regulate
fluctuations in body temperature.
Detoxification
To remove poison or effect of poison from the body.
Dimethicone
Moisturizing silicone skin and hair conditioner and anti-foam ingredient.
Dimethicone Copolyol
Complex of natural silica, acts as a spreading agent for easy application of
product; also functions as a moisturizer.
Dishidrotic Dermatitis
Dishidrotic dermatitis (pompholyx) is a form of hand eczema more common in women
which starts on the sides of the fingers as itchy little bumps and then develops
into a rash. The condition can also affect only the feet. Some patients have it
in both the hands and feet.
Dry Skin
Xerosis is the term for dry skin. We all have a natural oil coating over our
skin produced by the skin oil glands. If this oil is removed, then the skin
becomes dry which can lead to cracking, which can lead to inflammation. Xerosis
is usually a long-term problem that recurs often, especially in the winter.
Echinacea
Assists immune function, anti-inflammatory.
Elder Flower
Used in eye and skin creams for its astringent properties.
Electrolysis
Destroys the hair's roots with an electric current. This is a permanent means of
ridding unwanted hair.
Emulsifier
An agent used to make an emulsion, which is a mixture of liquids, minute
globules of one being suspended in a second that doesn't dissolve the first.
Emollients
Ingredients that soften or smooth.
Epidermis
The protective top layer of the skin where pigment cells, which give colour to
the skin, are found.
Essential Oils
Aromatic liquids are extracted from some types of flowers, fruits, roots and
trees to use on the body. These oils are created to help bring oxygen and
nutrients to the tissues while assisting to remove carbon dioxide and other
waste products produced by cell metabolism.
Exfoliating
A process of removing the top dead skin layers to reveal healthier, newer skin
underneath. This can be done chemically with such acids as AHAs or BHAs.
Physically with scrubbing grains such as apricot kernels or baking soda.
Follicle
A pore in the skin from which a hair grows.
Fragrance
Any natural or synthetic substance or substances use solely to impart an odor to
a cosmetic product.
Fragrance-Free
Products so labeled may still contain small amounts of fragrances to mask the
fatty odor of soap or other unpleasant odors. (There is no official governmental
definition for this term.)
Free Radicals
Chemical agents that contribute to the wear and tear of cells through a chemical
reaction known as oxidation, which is thought to be central to the aging
process.
Gels
Gels work on cellulite, tone, extract, and purify. Can contain pulverized
vegetables and fruits, vitamins and minerals, and can be used for soothing,
moisturizing, and hydrating.
Ginkgo Biloba
Anti-inflammatory agent.
Glyceryl Monostearate
Emulsifier; also pearlescent agent.
Glycerin
A humectant which absorbs moisture from the air to keep hair and skin moist. It
is also used as an emollient, lubricant, emulsifier and diluting agent in
cosmetics.
Glycolic acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid found in grapes, sugar beets and sugar cane and especially
used in medicine.
Grapefruit Seed Extract
Natural oil used as a cosmetic preservative.
Guava Extract
Contains glucides and amino acids to increase skin radiance and brighten the
complexion.
Hives
Hives are itching red welts or small bumps that last for 15 minutes to several
hours. They usually appear suddenly and leave no trace when they disappear.
Crops of hives may appear several times a day, they may even last for weeks,
sometimes longer. Hives are harmless except when they cause throat swelling;
this is rare but requires immediate treatment.
Honey
Humectant for skin and hair.
Humectant
An ingredient in skin or hair products that draws moisture from the air to
moisturize.
Hypoallergenic
Cosmetics that are less likely to cause allergic reactions. (There is no
official governmental definition for this term.)
Iron Oxides
Inorganic pigments approved for cosmetic use, including the eye area.
Isopropyl Lanolate, Myristate, and Palmitate
Synthetic moisturizers.
Jojoba Oil
Contains superior properties to keep skin soft. It is beneficial to acne prone
skin and dry hair.
Kaolin
A white clay used for absorbing impurities from the skin.
Lactic acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid obtained from sour milk; especially used in food and
medicine.
Lanolin
A natural extract of sheep wool used as a moisturizer which is a common cause of
allergic reactions, but is rarely used in pure form.
Lauramide DEA
Emulsifier and foam booster.
Lavender Extract
Anti-inflammatory, soothing agent.
Liposomes
Microscopic sacs manufactured from natural or synthetic fatty substances which
include phospholipids (components of cell membranes). When properly mixed with
water, phospholipids can "trap" any substance that will dissolve in water or
oil. Manufacturers say that liposomes act like a delivery system, depositing
product ingredients into the skin. When the liposomes "melt" the ingredients,
such as moisturizers, are released.
Malic acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid found in various plant and fruit juices (apples), especially
used in effervescent saline preparations and as a food additive.
Matrix
Spot under the skin of the fingernail mantle where the nail plate begins to
grow.
Matrixyl™
Anti-wrinkle ingredient. A bio-chemically engineered molecule (very small
portion of the collagen molecule). Once it penetrates the skin, it stimulates
the production of collagen and GAG’S.
Melanin
The pigment which naturally colors the hair and skin.
Melanoma
Melanoma or "black mole cancer" is the name given to the most dangerous form of
skin cancer. Melanoma is so dangerous because once it grows to a certain
thickness, it metastasizes or spreads throughout the body. Once melanoma spreads
to the internal organs there is little that can be done and death follows
shortly after. This type of cancer tends to occur in men and women.
Melasma
Melasma or chloasma is a brownish discoloration of the face that occurs most
often in women. Men can also develop this problem. The brown color often fades
in winter and gets worse in the summer. Pregnancy (mask of pregnancy) is the
most common cause of melasma. Women who are taking oral contraceptives are at
risk of developing melasma. Sunlight is a major factor in the development of
melasma.
Methylisothiazolinone
Antimicrobial, a preservative.
Mica (iridescent)
Approved for use in cosmetics, including the eye area. Natural Ingredients
extracted directly from plants, earth minerals, or animal products as opposed to
being produced synthetically. When used in a cosmetic context there is no
regulation for the use of this word.
Miliaria
"Prickly heat" or miliaria is a common rash caused by sweat retention.
Minneral Salts
Inorganic salts needed by plants and animals for healthy functioning of the
organism.
Nettle
A botanical additive used in hair and skin products, particularly eye creams and
treatments for the scalp.
Non-Comedogenic
Substances that are less likely to clog pores or promote acne.
Oat Derived Polysaccharide
Natural complex derived from oats that functions to assist the body's immune
system, to maintain healthy skin.
Oat Oil
Powerful antioxidant and emollient; provides deep antioxidant activity.
Oil-Free
A product free of vegetable or mineral oil.
PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid)
A substance which absorbs UV light, acting as a sun block.
Papaya Extract
Contains a proteolytic enzyme (papaine) which has exfoliating and cleansing
properties.
Paraguay Tea
Augments action of theophylline, also contains antioxidant to help maintain
healthy skin.
Paraffin
Provides deep hydration for the skin.
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Emollient and co-emulsifier.
Petroleum
Mixture of hydrocarbons with similar properties as mineral oil. Industrially it
is used as a grease component. (Example: Vaseline is a petroleum jelly.)
pH level
The measure of acidity or alkalinity.
Phenyl Trimethicone
Emollient, moisturizer.
Pigmentation Spots
Discoloration of the skin.
Pimples
Acne is the term for pimples and complexion problems which occur in young people
and some adults. Pimples usually occur on the face, but may involve the neck,
chest, back and upper arms. Acne is only a skin problem and does not affect your
general health.
Polyquaternium-37
Emulsifier.
Polysorbates
Emulsifier.
Propylene Glyco
Combination of glycerin and water, a humectant in cosmetics. The most common
moisture-carrying vehicle in cosmetics other than water.
Propylparaben
Preservative.
Psoriasis
This skin condition most often appears on the scalp, elbows and knees. Psoriasis
affects between 1-3% of the population. It varies in severity from mild to
severe. Psoriasis can start at any age. Areas of the skin grow much faster than
normal and form red, scaling patches. Psoriasis is itchy and unsightly, but is
not contagious.
Quaternium-15
Preservative used in cosmetics. Fights bacteria.
Reflexology
Ancient Chinese technique using pressure point massage to restore the flow of
energy throughout the body. Areas of the hands and feet are targeted to specific
organs in the body.
Retin-A
Vitamin A derivative that acts as a topical anti-acne treatment. Additionally
found to be beneficial in removing fine lines from facial skin. Creates
photosensitivity. Available by prescription only.
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Essential skin nutrient necessary for healthy skin maintenance and repair.
Rosacea
Rosacea is a common face rash of adults. Rosacea is only a skin condition and is
not related to your general health. Rosacea has three stages. In the first stage
the face gets red. This redness sometimes merges into the normal variants of
ruddy or blushy complexions. The redness often persists after cold exposure or
after exposure to irritants like soap. With time, small blood vessels develop
making the redness more noticeable. Many patients will develop stinging or
burning sensations and the skin will often feel tight. The skin feels like a
mild sunburn with smiling, frowning, or squinting. Sometimes this progresses to
the point that everything the patient puts on his or her face stings, burns, and
irritates. In the second stage of rosacea, the redness covers a larger area of
the face. Slight swelling, pimples, and pustules develop. This is especially
noticeable on the nose, mid-forehead, and chin. As the condition progresses,
prominent facial pores can develop. The third stage is characterized by swelling
and growth of the nose and central facial areas. At times the ears may be
involved as well. This can be very disfiguring. This stage is known as
rhinophyma. Most patients do not progress to the third stage of rosacea.
Rosemary Extract
Natural antioxidant.
Scabies
Scabies also known as "the itch" is an intensely itching rash caused by a tiny
mite (bug) that lives in the skin. Since it is only 1/60th inch long, the
scabies mite is almost impossible to see without magnification. The rash usually
involves the hands, wrists, breasts, genital area, and waistline. In severe
cases scabies can spread to almost the entire body, but rarely the face. Scabies
often resembles other rashes. The only way to find out whether you have scabies
is for a doctor to scrape off a piece of skin and examine it under a microscope.
Seborrheic Dermatitis
Severe Dandruff. This chronic, scaly rash appears on the scalp, face, ears and
chest. It is most frequently seen in the winter months on older people. It is
thought by some to be caused by yeast growing on the skin and it is believed
those who have it are genetically predisposed to the condition. While there is
no cure, treatment to lessen the appearance includes special shampoos and
topical ointments.
Sebum
Natural oils in the skin and scalp that lubricate and protect.
Silicone
A compound of silicon used in shine-enhancing hair products to seal the cuticle
of hair and in many oil-free cosmetics.
Sodium Chloride
Common table salt used as an astringent/antiseptic.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
A white powder used as a detergent, emulsifier, and surfectant in cosmetics. A
very strong degreaser. Also used as a water "softener".
SPF
An acronym for "Sun Protection Factor" ranging from 2 to 45 with 2 being the
least protection and 45 the most.
Stearic Acid and Stearyl Alcohol
Used for its emollient properties and as a moisturizing ingredient.
Sun Spots (age spots)
Sun spots (age spots), also known as lentigines, are harmless, flat, brown
discolorations of the skin which usually occur on the back of the hands, neck
and face of people older than 40 years of age. These spots more than anything
else, give away a person's age. Sun spots are caused by the skin being exposed
to the sun over many years and are a sign of sun damage.
Tartaric Acid
Alpha-hydroxy acid of plant origin (grapes), used especially in food and
medicines, in photography and in making salts and esters.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Antioxidant vitamin, emollient and moisturizer.
Transparent Soap
Superfatted soap with a high glycerin content. Usually used for sensitive and
normal-to-oily skin.
Triethanolamine
pH adjuster used mostly in transparent soap.
Vitamin E Acetate
Antioxidant.
Vitamins
Foods containing vitamins A, D, E, K, and some of the B complex group are
necessary in diets to maintain healthy skin and hair.
Warts
Warts are harmless skin growths caused by a virus. They have a rough surface on
which tiny dark specks may be seen. They may grow on any part of the body and
their appearance depends on their location. Warts in the genital or rectal area
have a wet appearance and have been said to look like cauliflower.
Zinc Oxide
An oxide of zinc, an astringent.
Zinc Stearate
Used in powder to improve texture and to lubricate.
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